Service — Cosmetic R&D
Custom cosmetic formulation in Tunisia
Custom cosmetic formulation starts from a blank page: a formula created for your brand, then manufactured at our site in Tunisia with our own equipment. We also prepare its product information file (PIF) and its CPNP notification.
Our R&D approach
Science in the service of sensoriality.
Oppenheimer Lab’s R&D department brings together experienced cosmetic formulators and sensory evaluators. Our mission: to translate a brand intention into a concrete formula that is stable, effective and sensorial. Every project starts with a monitoring phase — we closely follow global beauty trends, scientific publications and changes in the European and Tunisian regulatory framework.
This monitoring feeds our library of innovative actives: biomimetic peptides, biotechnological actives, plant extracts from Tunisian biodiversity (prickly pear, olive, harissa, myrtle, rosemary), new-generation acids and retinoids, skin prebiotics and probiotics. For each brief, we select the most relevant and most thoroughly clinically documented active ingredients.
Our laboratory is equipped with a complete R&D bench: precision balances, stirrers, homogenisers, pH meters, viscometers, stability ovens and sensory evaluation booths. From the 50 g sample to the industrial pilot, scale-up is controlled at every stage.
The process
Formulation in four controlled stages.
01
Brief & scoping
We decode your vision, your market and your constraints. Sensory, technical and regulatory specifications signed jointly.
02
Development
Our R&D formulates a first prototype. Iterations on texture, fragrance, actives and primary packaging until validation.
03
Stability tests
Three months of observation in stability ovens (4°C, room temperature, 40°C) — physico-chemical and microbiological stability, and compatibility with the container.
04
Validation & PIF
Preparation of the Product Information File (PIF) and of the CPNP notification.
Galenic forms
Every cosmetic galenic form, one laboratory.
From the classic emulsion to the most innovative forms, our R&D masters all the galenic forms used in modern cosmetics and dermocosmetics.
O/W & W/O emulsions
Creams, milks, fluids for face, body and hair.
Serums & concentrates
Water-based or oil-based textures, high concentration of actives.
Gels & gel-creams
Immediate freshness, melting multifunctional textures.
Oils & balms
Anhydrous, rich, cocooning — face, body, hair, lips.
Foams & cleansers
Gentle cleansing bases, sulphate-free, airy textures.
Toners & lotions
Floral waters, essences, mists with plant extracts.
Masks & scrubs
Clay, sheet, peel-off, mechanical or enzymatic exfoliants.
Sun care & sticks
Mineral or organic SPF, solid sticks, roll-ons.
Why choose an exclusive formula
A signature that belongs to you alone.
Contractual exclusivity
The formula is assigned to you exclusively. No other brand will be able to produce it.
Strong differentiation
Proprietary actives, an identifiable texture, a bespoke fragrance: a product DNA that stands out on the shelf.
Scientific storytelling
You have a complete R&D file to tell the story of its genesis, its benefits and its studies.
Protection and value
An exclusive formula increases the value of your brand and can be registered.
The service
Preparing a custom cosmetic formulation properly
Before the first trial, we set five reference points with you: the target, the expected benefit, the intended retail price, the quantity to produce and the overall budget, marketing included. This scoping avoids the most common pitfall: an ambition (an original formula, specific packaging, several products) that the budget or the launch date cannot keep up with. A brief that keeps changing makes the problem worse.
The service
Why allow 6 to 12 months
Creating a formula from scratch generally takes 6 to 12 months, compared with 45 to 90 days for a private label formula from our catalogue: successive prototypes, stability tests and the regulatory file make the difference. If your launch is close, a customised ready-to-launch formula may be a more suitable starting point. Each stage is detailed in our article from brief to industrial batch.
Mohamed Arbi Jallali, a partner, is both formulator and head of production; a chemical engineer, he has 14 years’ experience in the cosmetics industry.
FAQ
Frequently asked questions
What information should I send for an initial formula estimate?
Describe the product (type of care, texture, intended container), its target, its countries of sale and the planned quantities. The price depends on the product, the actives and the packaging: the quote is free and we reply within 48 working hours. Everything can go through the quote request page.
Who carries out the safety assessment of a custom formula?
For the European Union, Article 10 of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (new tab) entrusts it to a person holding a diploma “in pharmacy, toxicology, medicine or a similar discipline”. The Responsible Person must ensure that it is carried out before the product is sold. The safety report (CPSR) joins the product information file (Article 11), which we prepare along with the CPNP notification.
Should development be timed around the selling season?
Yes. In summer, demand focuses mainly on sun care products; in winter, on moisturising care and solutions for oily skin. With 6 to 12 months of development, an exclusive formula planned for the summer has to be started well in advance. Our sun care range page presents the constraints of these products.
Can an exclusive formula be produced in a small batch?
Yes, subject to assessment. Small batches are negotiable, from 100 to 200 units depending on the project, which lets you test an exclusive formula with your customers before committing to larger volumes. The quantity chosen appears in the quote, along with the container and the schedule.
Would you rather start faster with an existing base?
Discover our ready-to-launch formulasLet’s get started
Ready to create your exclusive formula?
Send us your brief — we reply within 48 hours with an initial estimate of lead times and costs.